Reykjavík to the Highlands: Which Highland bus route is right for you

Iceland’s striking interior doesn’t receive the attention it deserves. Many overseas tourists pass up the chance to visit the extraordinary landscapes of the Highland region in favour of more easily accessible parts of the country. Yet that’s a pity: the scenery will rightly make a lasting impression. In this article, we’ll take a look at why you should visit using Icelandia’s Highland Bus and how to choose between three very different but equally compelling routes.

While you’ll encounter incredible landscapes all over Iceland, the increase in tourist numbers in recent years means that some of the most popular locations can get quite busy, particularly during peak season. The landforms you find in places like South Iceland, the Golden Circle and Snæfellsnes Peninsula won’t disappoint, but if you’re looking for a truly off the beaten track experience then it’s hard to beat the Highland region.

This is Iceland at its most wild and remote, whether you view it through the window of the Highland bus or lace up your boots for an epic hike. Those putting in the extra effort to distance themselves from the ring road and its mainstream delights will reap the reward of solitude and unspoilt beauty.

The rugged terrain is surprisingly varied. Stark monochromatic lava fields contrast with tucked away moss-covered valleys and canyons. Water plays a major part in shaping the landscape up here: majestic glaciers that have carved out dramatic valleys, crater lakes that remind us of the importance of volcanic activity and streams that tumble over cliffs to become photogenic waterfalls.

This mineral-rich landscape is a treat for the eyes. At Landmannalaugar, rhyolite mountains form the colourful backdrop to many a hike. In summer, as the last vestiges of winter snowfalls melt away from lower slopes, the greens, reds and yellows that streak the mountainsides command attention and will have you pausing to reach for your camera time and time again.

Iceland’s Highland region is primarily accessed by what’s known as F-roads. These are the country’s mountain roads and they open only seasonally. Precise dates vary but depending on the route, in a typical year you’ll usually be able to drive on them between early to mid June and the middle of September.

To do so as part of a self-drive itinerary requires a high clearance 4x4. This is because the F-roads are more challenging than regular roads. They’re gravel, but also often uneven, potholed and not as well maintained as coastal routes. Many of them cross rivers and unless you are used to this kind of driving, fording water that’s sometimes surprisingly deep and fast flowing can feel daunting, especially if you’re a solo traveller.

The weather also plays a part. Up here at altitude, conditions can be very different from Reykjavik and the south coast. Storms blow in quickly and low cloud can soon limit visibility. Snow isn’t uncommon even during the summer and even by Icelandic standards, the weather changes rapidly, catching out unsuspecting tourists.

Little wonder, therefore, that many visitors keen to experience the dramatic landscapes and spectacular landforms choose to do so with someone else at the wheel. Icelandic Highlands transport is limited, however, as this isn’t the kind of place you can just hop on any old bus. While super jeep tours are one option, these can be expensive and so travellers on a more restricted budget might turn to something unique: the Highland bus.

The first indication that this isn’t a regular bus comes when you step out of the terminal building in Reykjavik and set eyes on the bus. Though it’ll be flanked by other sightseeing buses, this one doesn’t look the same. The Highland bus is much higher off the ground to cope with uneven terrain and ford rivers without becoming stranded. It’s quintessentially Icelandic, a stellar example of the country’s can-do attitude and refusal to be beaten by nature.

Taking the bus rather than driving yourself is the easiest way to immerse yourself in your surroundings. Expert drivers make it look routine, but getting this specially-modified vehicle up to the mountains and back is no easy task. Knowing that you’ve chosen to travel in a more sustainable way as you leave the driving to someone else is another bonus. Compared to group tours, it’s also a cost-effective option.

In some respects, the Highland bus operates just as any long distance bus might. You choose your route – more about that in due course – then book your ticket online. On the day, you board the bus at Reykjavik’s BSI bus terminal and sit back as you travel along the south coast and then turn inland to reach your destination.

Each leg is sold separately, so you can choose to hike between two different points if you choose; luggage delivery can be arranged to Þórsmörk.Delivery is available to three areas: Húsadalur (Volcano Huts), Langidalur and Básar. Booking’s only necessary if you want your bag delivered to a different place than the one you’re travelling to. Check online for terms and conditions.

Scheduled departures of the Highland Bus are limited, but it’s not hard to make them work when you are planning your itinerary. Note that the return bus from Skógar spends several hours in Hvolsvöllur; travellers planning a shorter inland hike above Skógafoss might consider staying beside the waterfall overnight or use a mix and match combo, pairing the outbound Highland bus with a return on the scheduled 51 service which departs mid-afternoon.

When you’re ready to lock in your plans, the schedules for your Iceland highlands bus transfer can be found online. You’ll see that there are three different routes: to Þórsmörk, Landmannalaugar and Skógar. The Þórsmörk and Landmannalaugar timetables are designed so that it’s possible to pull off a day trip, which is a memorable taster if this is your first visit or you have limited time in Iceland.

Meanwhile, for those with a little more time at their disposal, those following long distance paths will require transport at either end. Pair Landmannalaugar and Þórsmörk buses for the Laugavegur Trail. Alternatively, the Þórsmörk and Skógar services make it possible for walkers to be dropped off and picked up at either end of the Fimmvörðuháls Trail. Cover all six days on our guided hiking package.

This service operates only during the summer months, relying on the seasonal F-roads. Typically, the Þórsmörk buses run for a longer period of time, beginning in early June, while the Landmannalaugar and Skógar services kick off by the middle of the month. From late June through until late August, a second bus operates to and from Þórsmörk, giving travellers even more flexibility.

Even if you aren’t planning a long distance hike, you can choose to reserve overnight accommodation and remain in the Highland region for a longer period of time. There are mountain huts that can be pre-booked as well as camping pitches. This breathtaking part of Iceland warrants as much time as you can give it; in summer especially you won’t regret spending an extended period of time up here.

Þórsmörk

Taking the bus to Þórsmörk, Iceland will be irresistible to anyone with a passion for nature. Verdant and magical, Þórsmörk is an oasis of green amid what’s otherwise often a stark, monochrome landscape. This is a delightful spot, known for its lushness and seclusion. The Þórsmörk bus from Reykjavik really does transport you into a fairytale world – after just four hours on the road.

Though the timetable of the Highland Bus from Reykjavík to Þórsmörk facilitates day trips, you really do gain a lot by staying for longer. We operate four-day trips for this reason, enabling visitors to see more of the off the beaten track destinations within this captivating region. On our guided hiking tours, everything’s taken care of and all you need to do is show up.

Þórsmörk is home to a variety of accessible trails, so if you don’t feel you have the fitness or stamina for the Laugavegur or Fimmvörðuháls Trails you can still appreciate the breathtaking landscapes in this area. Unmissable highlights include venturing into Stakkholtsgjá canyon in search of a hidden waterfall and summiting Valahnúkur, where hikers are rewarded with splendid views of glaciers and the river valley below.

Landmannalaugar

Landmannalaugar is equally captivating but in a different way. The Landmannalaugar bus from Reykjavik takes around four and a half hours to make the journey. The road to reach it crosses a couple of rivers, the last of which is within walking distance of the visitor facilities. Besides accommodation, there’s a seasonal café here and a toilet and shower block which can be accessed by day visitors as well as those staying here.

Tucked up against the hill is a winding stream whose geothermally heated water has soothed the weary for centuries. In the old days, people would have broken their journey here as they moved animals between pastures. These days, tourists seek out the People’s Pools as a wilder alternative to the luxury geothermal lagoons that have cropped up in many parts of the country.

But the primary reason visitors come to Landmannalaugar is for the views; it’s not hard to see why the Reykjavik to Landmannalaugar bus is a favourite with independent travellers. Numerous hiking trails wind through this part of the Highland region. Walkers follow upland trails that traverse ridges and lead to overlooks that open up panoramas of the mineral-rich hills and vast lava fields.

It’s a glorious place to spend time, whether you’re hiking one of the shorter loop trails in between buses or walking greater distances to reach more distant scenic spots. For instance day-trippers with around four hours here to play with might combine a short hike to Laugahraun lava field and Bláhnúkur with a dip in the natural hot spring as steam rises beside you. With a full day at your disposal you could summit Brennisteinsalda or admire the gloriously green Grænihryggur.

The most epic hike you can embark upon follows the Laugavegur Trail. It’s usually tackled over four days and is one of Iceland’s most famous multi-day routes. The path winds through lava fields and beside sulphur-rich rivers; it overlooks glaciers and mountain peaks. The final stage of the trail finishes up in beautiful Þórsmörk and so it’s possible to use the Highland Bus at either end.

Skógar

The third Highland bus route connects Skógar and Reykjavik. The Skógar highland bus route really comes into its own for travellers keen to do a long distance hike. Add the Fimmvörðuháls Trail onto the Laugavegur Trail – it’s just one or two more days – to leave the moss-covered glacial valley of Þórsmörk behind and reach the string of waterfalls that eventually leads to Skógafoss and the south coast.

Skógar, of course, is best known for Skógafoss. It’s one of Iceland’s best known waterfalls and a routine stop for day tours along the South Coast. Falling from a height of 60 metres, it’s not hard to see why this broad and powerful waterfall is such a hit with overseas visitors. Year-round, its appeal lies not only in its setting but also its accessibility from the ring road.

However, on a South Coast day trip, your time here will be limited. There’s enough time to admire the curtain of water from the foot of the falls and climb the metal steps beside it to take in the coastal views. Nevertheless, you’ll have one eye on the time as you prepare to continue eastwards to Vik, with its own jaw-dropping natural beauty.

But it’s possible to tackle Skógar in a different way. If you want more, however, you’ll need to stay longer; follow the riverside trail inland, leave the others behind. Discover a succession of smaller falls as the trail winds between Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers and you make your way to distant Þórsmörk. Choose to return to Skógar the same day or complete the entire Fimmvörðuháls trek using the Fimmvörðuháls bus link: both are satisfying alternatives.

If you’re an independent traveller seeking to experience Iceland away from the crowds, then this part of the country is for you. Whether you opt for Þórsmörk, Landmannalaugar or Skógar, the Highland Bus Iceland service takes the stress out of driving yourself up to these out of the way places. Reliable and convenient, taking the bus in the Icelandic highlands is an adventure in itself.

Whether you see the service as an Iceland Highland hiking bus or as a means to a very special day trip amid unspoilt scenery, it promises to be one of the most memorable parts of any summer trip. Head online now to lock in your dates before someone else occupies your seat.