Snaefellsnes vs. Golden Circle

It’s quickly apparent to any overseas visitor planning a trip to Reykjavik that it would be a mistake to pass up the chance of touring the surrounding countryside. Depending on how much time you have, filling your schedule can be an easy process or the cause of some difficult decisions. With those with little time on their hands, itinerary planning might come down to a choice between Snæfellsnes and the Golden Circle region.

To help you settle the Snæfellsnes versus Golden Circle debate, we’ve put together an article which compares these two rewarding areas of Iceland. Under the radar Snæfellsnes goes head to head with the classic Golden Circle as we delve into the attractions of each. Icelandia offers both a wonderful Snæfellsnes Peninsula day tour and a tempting selection of Golden Circle day tours. If you really can’t choose, why not save yourself this decision-making headache and make time for both?

Both Snæfellsnes and the Golden Circle region showcase Iceland’s striking geology and geography. Each makes a lasting impression, from the dramatic coastal scenery of the west to the equally remarkable landscapes inland. Choosing which exemplifies the real Iceland is impossible as they both do. In this respect there’s a strong argument for allocating two days to tours which enables you to see both places.

The Snæfellsnes peninsula

The Snæfellsnes peninsula sticks out of the Icelandic mainland like a knobbly finger pointing towards the Atlantic Ocean. Sandy and pebbly beaches punctuate its shoreline, as do fractured and fault-ridden cliffs teeming with seabirds. Offshore stacks and stumps, coupled with gnarly arches, remind us of the powerful waves that periodically batter the coast.

Mountains dominate the interior, their volcanic origin evident in the area’s basalt cliffs and the lava fields that spill out across the lowland beneath them. If you know where to look, tucked away caves and lava tubes beckon intrepid explorers. Above everything rises Snæfellsjökull glacier, the majestic body of ice that is the crowning glory of the national park that bears its name.

The Golden Circle

The three key sites of the Golden Circle route promote the diversity of its inland terrain. At Þingvellir National Park, you can’t fail to notice the rift that runs diagonally across much of the country and provides irrefutable evidence of two diverging plate boundaries. Appreciate it as you take a casual stroll along the Almannagjá Gorge or snorkel between the plates at Silfra Fissure.

At Geysir, Iceland’s geothermal activity is clear to see. Steam rises over the Haukadalur valley as superheated water vapour finds its way out of vents in the mineral-stained ground. Nowhere is this more apparent than at Strokkur, where a jet of hot water shoots high into the air at pleasingly frequent intervals to the delight of a gathered crowd. The soothing warm waters of the area’s geothermal lagoons and pools, such as those at Laugarvatn and Laugarás, welcome both locals and tourists alike.

Rounding out this spectacular trio is a magnificent two-stepped waterfall that crashes down the Hvitá River. The churning white water and spray of Gullfoss – its name means Golden Falls – leave you in awe of the power of nature. Easy paths lead to higher ground where the views downstream along a steep-sided gorge can be fully appreciated; on a clear day you’ll also be able to admire Langjökull, the country’s second largest glacier and a major contributor to Gullfoss waterfall’s impressive discharge.

When planning your Iceland day tours, you’ll inevitably compare the Golden Circle with Snæfellsnes. The former receives more visitors, while the latter remains to some extent a relatively hidden gem. If your main goal is to find a crowd free Iceland day trip, West Iceland is probably the more suitable option – it still flies under the radar and receives fewer visitors. Combine the Golden Circle and Snæfellsnes in one trip: it’s as straightforward as visiting them on consecutive days.

There’s some overlap between the two regions when it comes to terrain. Both have been shaped by the heat that’s stored beneath the earth’s surface, from the plate boundary that cuts across Þingvellir National Park and the Golden Circle’s abundant geothermal energy to the glacier-capped stratovolcano and moss-covered lava fields that characterise Snæfellsnes.

Water plays a significant role in both environments as well. On the Snæfellsnes peninsula, coastal erosion is constantly sculpting and altering the shoreline. The Golden Circle lies entirely inland, but its landscapes also owe their existence to fluvial processes as rainfall coupled with meltwater from Langjökull creates a verdant scene and feeds the region’s rivers, streams and waterfalls.

Snæfellsnes is often nicknamed Iceland in Miniature or Iceland in a Nutshell because of how diverse the peninsula is. During a twelve-hour tour you’ll be amazed at the variety of landscapes you encounter. The same could be said for the Golden Circle, however, whose trio of big-hitters couldn’t be more different from each other. In short, you won’t find that either tour gets boring; both offer a lot of variety and, if you are lucky enough to make it to both, are distinctly different from each other too.

Snæfellsnes and the Golden Circle also both play a key role in the Icelandic sagas. These are family chronicles that explore some of the most pivotal moments in the country’s early settled history. They aren’t contemporary accounts, but they do form a written record of sorts. Reading the Icelandic sagas – or learning the basics in Reykjavik’s Saga Museum – can give you an insight into what the country would have been like.

Njál’s Saga

Given that Þingvellir National Park is where you’ll find the site of the Alþing, Iceland’s first parliament, it’s no surprise that the region features heavily in the sagas. One of the most famous is Njál’s saga. Written in the 11th century, it covers a blood feud and the events that resulted from it during the period 960AD to 1020AD.

The tensions that are brought to the Alþing illustrate the conflict that arises between the need of the main protagonists to uphold their families’ honour against the public laws that governed what they did. These events form the backbone of this fascinating and compelling saga, showing that corruption and violence were commonplace and laying out the chieftains’ flaws in meticulous detail.

Visitors to the Golden Circle are immersed in Icelandic history from the minute they walk down into the Almannagjá Gorge. The area’s geological past is evident in the steep sided walls of the gorge; before long the view of the flood plain below opens up. Stepping up to the site of the Lögberg, or in English "Law Rock", you can imagine the chieftains meeting to passionately debate policy and how vehemently they’d have put arguments for and against the adoption of Christianity.

Bárður Saga Snæfellsás

Over in Snæfellsnes, if you embark on a five minute walk from the Gatklettur arch in Arnarstapi, you’ll encounter a 6 metre tall monument made out of stone. It’s the work of an Icelandic artist called Ragnar Kjartansson and it commemorates a figure that featured prominently in the Bárður Saga Snæfellsás, written in the 14th century. Half human and half troll, Bárður Snæfellsás is a mythical creature who according to folklore is the peninsula’s protector.

According to legend, Bárður was the son of the giant king Dumbur. After a premonition of political change, he fled Norway and set his sights on Iceland. He arrived in Djúpalónssandur and settled close by, raising nine daughters. But tragedy struck while one of his girls was playing with his nephews, sons of his half brother; one of the kids pushed her and she floated out to sea on the pack ice. Thick fog made it impossible to find her and she eventually drifted all the way to Greenland.

Bárður was furious and vowed to avenge his daughter’s death. He tracked down the boys, picking them both up under his arms. Tramping into the mountainous interior of Snæfellsnes, he dropped one of them, Rauðfeldr, down a ravine. We know the place today as the Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge. Still holding the other boy, Sölvi, he stomped off and threw him off a cliff that has borne his name ever since – Sölvahamar.

When Bárður’s half-brother found out, he was understandably angry. The two men wrestled with each other until eventually Bárður broke his half-brother’s leg. Grief-stricken at what he’d done, Bárður exiled himself to the Snæfellsjökull glacier. He never died, but retreated to a cave. Locals turned to him whenever they needed help, calling on Bárður Snæfellsás, the god of Snæfell.

We’ve covered the captivating attractions of the Golden Circle in a separate article – you can read our ultimate guide here – so how does this one compare? On this Snæfellsnes Peninsula day tour in Iceland, we make seven confirmed stops; as well, you’ll see some of the area’s extraordinary scenery as you settle back into your comfortable seat on board the bus. Combining hidden gems and popular visitor destinations, you’ll be able to appreciate the true flavour of this irresistible corner of West Iceland.

We begin our tour in Reykjavik; after about an hour we reach the town of Borgarnes. Overlooking the ocean, you’ll be able to grab a coffee and pastry from the bakery here. Geirabakari Kaffihús featured in the Ben Stiller movie The Secret Life of Walter Mitty as apizzeria and if you’ve seen the film you’ll instantly recognise its distinctive architecture.

Our journey takes us along the southern shore of the peninsula. Before long, we’ll reach a rather unusual beach. Unlike many you’ll encounter in Iceland, this one is formed of golden sand. There’s another reason we love to stop here too: the place is home to a seal colony. Depending on the tide and with a little luck, you might see these cute mammals hauled out on the rocks.

Another striking stretch of coastline awaits and so we make our way to Arnarstapi. This place is known for its fabulous wave-cut arch, testament to the power of the waves that sometimes pound Iceland’s shoreline. The basalt rock formations and craggy cliffs are an impactful sight; you’ll spot plenty of seabirds here, especially during breeding season.

After completing our coastal walk, Djúpalónssandur awaits. This is another memorable stop on our Wonders of Snæfellsnes tour; here, the beach isn’t sandy, but instead is formed of small nuggets of cooled lava that have been abraded over time into smooth pebbles by the action of the waves. There’s also a shipwreck here, a reminder of how local people have had to find the strength to overcome adversity.

Back in the old days, many more people would have made a living from the ocean, but not everyone was fit and strong enough. To ensure captains didn’t hire someone that would prove to be a liability, a test was carried out using four lifting stones. Ranging in size from 23kg to a whopping 154kg, anyone who hoped to secure work as an oarsman had to demonstrate they could lift at least Hálfdrættingur (54 kg) onto a stone plinth. Try it if you like – it’s much harder than it looks.

Volcanic activity has shaped this peninsula so it’s fitting that our next destination is one of the results. Hólahólar isn’t as well known as some of our other stops, but this cluster of craters is fascinating nonetheless. If you’re interested in folklore, you may be keen to learn that this place is possibly home to a group of Huldufólk (Iceland’s hidden people). Our guide will explain more about their significance when you get there.

Rounding the western edge of the peninsula, as we continue our tour we’ll enjoy more views of the Snaefellsjökull National Park and the glacier that dominates the landscape. This part of Iceland was the inspiration for Jules Verne’s best-selling classic novel Journey to the Center of the Earth, even though he never made it here in person.

As we make our way along the northern shore of the peninsula, we call in at Olafsvik, a charming port that still boasts a working harbour. It’s one of the oldest such settlements in the country and those who fish today are following a long-standing tradition that dates back generations.

Finally, we reach the jewel in Snæfellsnes’ glittering crown. You’ve probably seen pictures of Kirkjufell (Church Mountain) – it’s truly the kind of place that makes you reach for the camera. Part of its enduring appeal is the sight of Kirkjufellsfoss in front of the mountain, a jaw-droppingly pretty waterfall that’s a beautiful sight. As we return to Reykjavik, you’ll understand why we called this our Wonders of Snæfellsnes tour.

If you settle on a Snæfellsnes Peninsula day tour in Iceland, either as a standalone excursion or as a follow up to the equally memorable Golden Circle day tour in Iceland, it’s quickly apparent why the country makes such a lasting impression for its nature, wildlife and landscapes. No matter what time of year you visit, this is one of the best Iceland day tours for first-time visitors, and just as appealing for those who’ve been before. This small group tour of the Snæfellsnes peninsula from Reykjavik is one of our favourites, and we hope you’ll enjoy it just as much as we do.

TL;DR: Both are extraordinary and worthwhile excursions. Definitely book your Golden Circle tour and follow up with the Wonders of Snæfellsnes Peninsula in a day or two.