THE BEAUTIFUL VILLAGE OF VÍK IN SOUTH ICELAND

Tourists exploring Iceland’s delightful South Coast or looping the country’s ring road will find themselves at some point in Vík í Mýrdal. This charming village, whose name is usually shortened to simply Vík, is a big draw, both in itself and for the striking landscapes and landforms you’ll find close by. Let’s take a look at what it offers and how to make the most of a visit.

Location, location, location: Vík is approximately a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Reykjavik and a little further from Keflavik Airport. It’s the ideal first stop if you plan to circumnavigate the country using the ring road. But there are myriad reasons to linger and explore the village’s dramatic surroundings. It’s no surprise that many travellers stay a night or two as they take advantage of the many visitor attractions in the area.

That said, it’s surprising how much you can see in a day. Most tours focusing on the south coast also stop in or near Vík. For instance, Icelandia’s South Coast Wonders tour combines Reynisfjara with Skógafoss and Seljalandsfoss waterfalls, as well as the chance to get a close-up look at Sólheimajökull glacier. It’s one of a wide range of South Coast tours that include a visit to the Vík area as well as a host of outdoor activities.

Vík took shape as a village in the 1890s; the oldest house here is Brydebud, which dates from 1895. Vík is unusual for a coastal settlement in Iceland in that it doesn’t have a harbour or jetty, thanks to the strength of the waves and rugged coastline. Today, it’s home to around 320 people but punches well above its weight as a tourist destination, so we’d recommend you incorporate it into your itinerary.

You’ll encounter a cluster of tour operators who capitalise on the possibilities delivered by the area’s remarkable landscapes. Activities include super jeep rides to Katla’s ice caves, glacier hikes, snowmobiling, ziplining and horse riding. Kids will love Vík’s heated outdoor swimming pool, and the village even boasts a nine-hole golf course.

The scenery around Vík is extraordinarily beautiful, even by Icelandic standards. Approaching the village from the west, Mýrdalsjökull glacier looms large inland, concealing Katla, one of Iceland’s most active volcanoes. As you round the bend and prepare to drop down to sea level, the glittering Atlantic Ocean presents itself in front of you.

Víkurkirkja

One of the first landmarks you’ll see is Vík’s pretty church, perched on a hill overlooking the village. Dating from 1934, the russet red roof of this Lutheran place of worship contrasts photogenically with the whitewashed walls and visitors are also attracted by the sea views. The church is often open allowing visitors to nose inside.

However, there’s also a practicality to this lofty position. If Katla were to erupt, melting Mýrdalsjökull glacier in the process, the village would experience severe flooding. The volcano is closely monitored as a consequence. But if required, the church would provide a safe haven for residents while the authorities assess the damage.

Lava Show

Tectonic processes have shaped Iceland. Around Vík, evidence of past eruptions is apparent in the prevalence of basalt columns and black sand beaches. So, it’s a logical place to learn more about the area’s geology and volcanism. Magma erupts to send rivers of molten lava flowing over the surrounding landscape. This superheated rock can reach temperatures of 1100°C (2000°F) in its molten state.

At Lava Show, this natural process is recreated for visitors, making it one of the most compelling Vík attractions. Basaltic tephra which originated from the Katla eruption of 1918 is heated to extreme temperatures. Experiencing it at close quarters is a multi-sensory affair. In these controlled conditions, the lava is directed to flow over blocks of ice. As it does so, it solidifies into volcanic glass, which is made into pieces of jewellery that make a wonderful souvenir.

Hafnleysa Maritime Museum

Vík’s maritime heritage is a fascinating subject and anyone with a keen interest in history should visit this museum. The exhibits housed in the Hafnleysa Maritime Museum recount the story of an oak-hulled ship called the Skaftfellingur that ferried fish between the islands of Vestmannaeyjar and the mainland.

The vessel was also used to rescue a German submarine crew during World War Two. The collection also covers some of the shipwrecks and historic maritime disasters that have occurred in South Iceland’s waters. On the museum’s exterior wall, a colourful mural depicts scenes of local life.

Vikurfjara

You don’t have to travel far to reach a black sand beach in Iceland, but this one is exceptionally convenient. Situated within Vík itself is Vikurfjara. Here, lava once flowed to the sea where it shattered and solidified as it came into contact with the frigid water of the Atlantic Ocean. Over time, it has been steadily eroded to the grains of sand you see today.

Vikurfjara is a popular destination for horseback riding tours which head out across the sand to enjoy views out over the ocean and across to Reynisdrangar. The level terrain means that even novices in the saddle can relax as the wind teases their horse’s mane and its hooves kick up the soft sand.

If you plan to wander down to the beach, you’ll need to be cautious, especially when the weather is blustery. Large yet unpredictable waves batter this stretch of the coastline, while strong currents make swimming extremely dangerous. Nevertheless, the drama of the scenery has an irresistible lure and you’ll want to make sure you’ve taken a closer look.

Reynisfjara Beach

A few miles to the west of Vík, you’ll find Reynisfjara Beach. It boasts a swath of fine black sand which often places high on lists of the world’s most beautiful beaches. It’s not hard to see why: backed by a towering cave carved by the waves, charcoal grey basalt columns dominate this magnificent landmark.

Above it, grassy nooks on the cliff face are home to a plethora of seabirds. puffins, guillemots and fulmars. Just out to sea, beyond the gnarly headland, sit the stacks of Reynisdrangar. According to folklore, they are petrified trolls that once tried to lure ships onto the rocky shore.

But striking though it undoubtedly is, Reynisfjara Beach is also one of the most perilous in Iceland. Powerful sneaker waves hit the beach without warning and can easily sweep a person off their feet. Visitors must respect the signage and warning system; even on a perfectly calm day it’s unwise to turn your back to the sea or venture too close to the shoreline.

Dyrhólaey

Dyrhólaey juts out into the ocean topped by a lighthouse; known to locals as Dyrhólaeyjarviti, it celebrates its centenary in 2027. From up here, the views up and down the coastline are nothing short of magnificent. Beneath your feet, the waves have undercut the rock to create natural arches; boats can easily pass through the biggest.

The promontory is famous for its seabirds and you’ll find a sizeable colony of puffins nesting here in summer. Other avian species found here include eider ducks and fulmars though the eagles that lent their name to Arnardrangur haven’t been sighted here for more than a century.

Where to Stay

For such a small place, there’s a surprisingly large number of beds and you’ll find something to suit any budget. Smart hotels abound, many of which have sprung up in recent years to keep pace with demand. Among the most chic are Hótel Kría and Hotel Vík í Mýrdal.

Close to the centrally-located Vík Apartments there are numerous guesthouses nearby offering traditional hospitality amid classic décor. Vik HI hostel perches on the hill above the church, offering a selection of shared and private rooms at reasonable prices.

Where to Eat

Vík boasts a wide variety of eateries encompassing everything from gastro pubs to barista-staffed cafés. These include:

• Black Crust Pizzeria – delicious pizzas made from signature charcoal infused dough and finished off with a variety of toppings including Icelandic langoustines
• Smiðjan Brugghús – trendy restaurant with an industrial chic vibe serving burgers, ribs and sandwiches
• Ströndin Pub – characterful pub with typical fare including burgers, fish and chips, lamb chops and traditional Icelandic fish stew
• Lava Bakery and Café – barista-made coffees alongside a delicious selection of bagels, sandwiches, cakes and pastries.
• Skool Beans – hand-crafted coffees and teas served with a selection of savoury snacks from inside an old school bus

• Book your accommodation well in advance if you plan to stay during peak season. In the summer, supply often outstrips demand, particularly when it comes to the best-value properties, so get organised well upfront to avoid having to backtrack to your overnight stop.
• Give yourself time to incorporate an activity or two into your schedule. While some must-sees, such as Reynisfjara, can be ticked off in an hour or two, you’ll appreciate hanging around a bit longerto visit an ice cave or participate in a glacier hike.
• Never underestimate the power of the sea, even when it appears to be flat and calm. The waves that break here travel for thousands of miles over the open ocean and can be terrifyingly strong. It’s not worth risking your life for a selfie, no matter how gorgeous the backdrop.